Saturday, July 11, 2015

Postcard from Båstad in Skåne

AirBnB in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
When a friend from NYC was transferred to Sweden for work a few months ago, two of our other friends in NYC decided it was time for them to fly over and visit. We came up with the idea of doing a roadtrip to the southern part of the country for a beach vacation at the end of June.

Our final destination was determined by AirBnB when we found the most charming of cottages in Båstad, a small (but well-renowned) town on the southwestern coast of Sweden in Skåne County, that was available for the days we had free. Look at the beautiful view from its deck and windows and how cozy its minimalism is:

AirBnB in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

AirBnB in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

AirBnB in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

AirBnB in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com


AirBnB in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
Swedish breakfast at our AirBnB in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
The other girls flew into Göteborg, so I took the 3'ish hour train ride down and they met me at the station in our rental car and we set out for Skåne. It was an easy (and pretty) two-hour drive, but we stopped about 30 minutes out in Halmstad for dinner before driving up the hill to the cottage.

We spent our first night catching up and playing games by candlelight (how had I never played Cards Against Humanity and Heads Up before?!) before collapsing into bed many, many hours past my bedtime. That, combined with me catching the most absurd of colds the day before I left, meant I was red-eyed, sleepy, congested, and cough-y when I woke up just a few hours after going to bed, feeling ravenous. Luckily (well less lucky for her given my breathing issues) I was sharing a room with the driver (we rented a manual transmission) and she was up, too, so we headed into town for breakfast supplies and put out a Swedish spread for the others.

Once we were all up and had coffee and breakfast in our systems the girls began to understand exactly what a "Swedish Summer" entails, mainly: rain. So we spent our first full day in Båstad lounging around, reading, chatting, and futzing about online before the sun decided to grace us with its presence in the late afternoon. We jumped up to take advantage of the break in the clouds and raced out for a little sightseeing.

We drove up into the hills behind Båstad for a late lunch at Cafe Utsikten, where the rain started pouring down again so we huddled over our meals to wait it out before we drove down into town and a bit past the main drag to Solbackens Wåffelbruk, a Swedish waffle house (and we're not talking the IHOP here), for dessert.

By then the sun was out and shining strong so drove into town and parked by the beach for a walk along the shore and down to the marina.

Cafe Utsiktet in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Cafe Utsiktet in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
Solbackens Café & Wåffelbruk in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
Båstad beach in Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Båstad marina in Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
Båstad marina in Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
Båstad marina in Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

On our walk we noticed a lovely little building built out at the end of a pier across from Hotel Skansen. The structure is the hotel's kallbadhuset (cold bath house), meaning, the type of spa structure where you indulge in the hot sauna and tepid outdoor jacuzzi before...plunging into the ocean.

(Viking blood and all.)

We made reservations for the next day, but given my weakened immune system and fever that was coming and going while I tried to breathe solely through my mouth given my nasal situation, I decided it perhaps wasn't the best idea for me to put my body through those extremes. Being a spa though, the "relaxation room" had a gorgeous view and a fireplace so I settled in with tea and my knitting there while the girls did their rounds.

Hotel Skansken Kallbadhuset sauna in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Hotel Skansken Kallbadhuset sauna in Båstad, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
The day after that we decided to brave the rain and the decidedly non-summer weather (low 50's, windy, and the aforementioned rain) and ignore our lack of gloves, hats, and boots to set out on a drive to see more of Skåne's coastline.

Heading further south we toured around the two little peninsulas directly south of Båstad (and edging right up to Denmark), winding along sweet Swedish lanes and passing fields and fields filled with wheat (?).

Skåne is known as the "breast basket" of Sweden, so while the countryside around Stockholm is filled with horse farms and cow pastures, that around Skåne is filled with grain (and cows and sheep). There was something wildly mesmerizing about the green stalks blowing in the breeze as we looped along the wide roads and around farms towards the beaches in Hovs Hallar and Mölle.

Fields in Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
Beach in Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
We had mapped out a meandering route that would take us to the Kullaberg Nature Reserve where a lighthouse stands—as well as Kullens fyr, a cafè that boasted a famous carrot cake. While we had hoped for a sunny day, the wind-whipped waves and gray light actually made the landscape even more beautiful and stunning. We walked along the cliffs for as long as we could stand it before seeking refuge and hot coffee (and cake) in the cafè.

Cliffs in Kullabergs naturreservat in Mölle, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
Cliffs in Kullabergs naturreservat in Mölle, Skåne, Sweden  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com


On our last morning in Båstad we packed up, cleared out our AirBnb and drove into town, parking and walking around a bit to enjoy the last bit of southern Sweden's adorable architecture. There's something about the buildings and the endearing and lovely houses that are so fairytale'ish and sweet. It's more dear than the stoic and stately architecture in and around Stockholm.

Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Båstad village and Swedish cottages  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Båstad village  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Båstad village  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Båstad village and Swedish cottages  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Båstad village and Swedish cottages  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
After leaving town we headed north to Stockholm. The drive is just over 5 hours so we planned to stop in Jönköping, a sizeable town on the southern-most point of Lake Vättern, for lunch. The drive there was about 2.5 hours so it made for a perfect mid-way point.

Plus, the sun had popped out and we plopped ourselves on a canal to soak it in over a tasty lunch before taking a walk along the lakefront and stuffing ourselves in the car again.

Jönköping port  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

Lake Vättern in Jönköping  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com
Båstad village and Swedish cottages and roses  |  Postcard from Båstad in Skåne on afeathery*nest  |  http://afeatherynest.com

By 5PM we had reached Stockholm and what did we find?

Summer. Pure, hot, sunny summer.

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One year ago: Moving on up at SFI & A more permanent nest to feather in Stockholm
Two years ago: Tacos, tortillas and tequila & Knitty in the city & Gasoline Alley

4 comments :

  1. Nice, I like the Mad Men-esque furniture.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Härliga bilder och mycket målande beskrivning av detta sydliga landskap.

    Min man och jag brukade säga: Sverige är fantastiskt.

    Vi menade att det finns så många sidor av landskapen med sin egen karaktäristiska stil som ger ögat något nytt att vila blicken på.

    Tack för resan.

    ReplyDelete

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XOXO,
J.